July 2023
Bio Note: In 1979 I hitchhiked from Baton Rouge to Miami to catch a flight to Bogota, Columbia. I bussed my way down to Machu Picchu and back. It was the trip of my life. I fell in love with Peru and found great peace in the Andes. In 2019 I returned with my daughter and son-in-law. If nothing else, that.
What Is Sterling, Nothing More
Above Cochas Chico, Peru, June 1979 I When I get above the tree line, a torrent spews out of a cave mouth, thunders down cliff-fall. I make the sierra, its hip-high grasses, spongy bogs. Three times I happen upon boulders chiseled into rough altars where potatoes are laid out to freeze at night, dry under sun. There are thousands of varieties of potatoes in Peru, some violet, others yellow as jasmine. Spindly, ovoid, round, all feel good in the palm. Finally, I reach a ridge, look back at a parade of alpacas led by one man who is the size of a leaf. Bells dangle off the alpaca’s necks, ting thin in thin air. I swallow canteen water, drift along a compass vector, close to sky, upside down upon the world's vast ceiling. II I have walked away from the Altiplano where families eke out a living, to go toward a site that has no face, no desire, no compassion. I stop by a lake, half-frozen, whey blue. To the south lies an escarpment covered with a rust-colored brush. A half-mile east, sheer cliff-drop, impassable. Behind me the west is stone, wind and scrub. The north – unknown, silent, boundless. I lie down. I sleep. Before dawn rings the mountains awake, a snow goose honks four times.
Leoncio
Cochas Chico, Peru, June 1979 In his courtyard, Leoncio Veli carves stories into gourds. At ten a.m. he etches a family of vicuna that graze on a ridge. Sun arcs shadow around him lean, then thick, then lean again. His face is buffed bronze, marked, furrowed. On the gourd sitting next to Leoncio there is a band complete with bass, accordion and tuba. Every day he wears the same trousers, shirt, sweater, jacket, all colorless. Leoncio adds tonal shade to his carvings by rolling embers on a stick of ash over his etchings. Two houses down, his brother does the same. It is painstaking work, done slowly. Leoncio is as quiet as his mountain.
©2023 Ed Ruzicka
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